When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.
The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the owners utterly surprised.
“I am completely surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.
In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.
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